The Tile Barn  

In association with Paul M Pinel Limited

How To... Tile like an expert is made a little easier with forward planning.

Floors pose different challenges to walls so be sure to ask for advice if you are unsure. Books and magazines help, not only with ideas for designs, but with advice and tips for budding tile fixers. Before you start, consider the choice of tile carefully, taking into account the surrounding decor and age of the house. Are you looking for a modern or traditional finish? Have you thought about underfloor heating? Would you like a natural or "man-made" tile? Ceramic, porcelain, natural stone, terracotta, slate, marble, limestone, travertine, granite, mosaic, glass, the choice is endless. Take your time to choose and ask for help and advice for the design and look you are wishing to achieve.

My top ten tips for creating that dream wall or floor, whether it be the kitchen, bathroom, conservatory or patio are:

1. Measure, and measure again. Make sure you have enough tiles to complete the task. All tiles may vary in colour and size, from batch to batch. As a guide, allow 5% extra for wastage or 10% if laying diagonally or using natural stone.

2. Planning is essential. Take time to plan each wall or floor. Find the centre of each area and, laying the tiles "dry", ensure that you avoid unsightly or difficult cuts. Always start from the centre of windows and door openings. You need to know where each area will finish, before you start!

3. Prepare the surface. Ensure that the surface to be tiled is dry, clean and dust-free, removing any loose and old material as you go. If you are tiling a previously painted area, score the surface with a suitable tool to provide a "key". You may need to install a secondary board to reduce any flexibility, ask for advice before tiling. Apply a coat of PVA sealer to all walls and floors and allow to dry. 

4. The correct tools and adhesives are essential. Most outlets lend or hire cutters, and can advise on the correct adhesives and grouts. If you are tiling onto timber, where movement is likely or where underfloor heating is present you must use a flexible adhesive and grout. Glass and natural stone require different adhesives again, if you are unsure ask for advice. Grouts are available in many colours, the choice is dependant on look and practicality.

5. Where to start. Screw or nail a temporary batten to the walls, using a spirit level as you go. This should be fixed at the point of your first full tile from the floor and meet when you complete all the walls. Time taken with this will ensure that your tiling is level and all the horizontal grout joints meet at the corners. The battens are removed once the adhesive is dry and the remaining tiles cut and fixed to the skirting or floor. Start from the centre of each wall, window or door, working up and out in a "staggered" sequence. In the case of the floor, start from the centre, working out, in quarters.

6. The art of tiling. "Comb" the adhesive to the surface using the appropriate trowel. Work in areas of no more than one square metre at a time, placing each tile, with a slight twist action, firmly into the adhesive and inserting plastic spacers to ensure a uniformed grout space. Apply additional adhesive to the back of the tile, if necessary, to achieve a flat surface. As you progress, keep checking, with your spirit level and tape measure, that your tiles are level and adjust accordingly.

7. Cutting well is important. Practice first with a broken or old tile. Measure the distance from the last full tile to the edge of the wall, ceiling or floor, on both edges of the tile, and using a felt-tip pen or similar transfer this measurement to the tile that requires cutting. There are many cutters available, all operated slightly different. Lay the tile on the cutter lining up your markings with the blade. Push, or pull, gently once only along the face of the tile. Line up the blade at the edge, now pushing down should snap the tile at the required position. For awkward or shaped cuts, use a pair of nibblers or a circular, diamond tipped, disk. Cutting on the larger side, and trimming slowly to fit, will reduce the chances of having to cut again and the risk of wasting tiles.

8. Now for the grout. Allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours before grouting. Make sure all the joints in the tiles, and the tiles themselves, are clean and free from any adhesive. Most grouts are available in powder form and are simply mixed with clean water to form a thick creamy consistency. Again, work in areas of no more than a square metre at a time, "pushing" the grout well into the joints, removing excess from the face of the tile as you go. Once touch dry, using a stiff sponge and water, clean off, first, diagonal to the joints. Then, run once in the direction of the joint. When a dust develops on the surfaces, use a dry cloth to remove it. This will enhance the appearance, of the semi-dried grout within the joints, when completely dry. Never leave dried grout on the tiles for more than two hours, removal later is extremely difficult and could damage or scratch the surface. I suggest that a thin bead of silicone, colour to match the grout, is applied to all internal angles and where the tiles meet worktops, sanitaryware and floors. This will prevent water penetration and grout cracking, should there be any movement between the surfaces. 

9. Sealing natural stone is essential to enhance the colour and prevent staining. Apply one coat, of a recommended sealer, before grouting and allow to dry in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. Ensuring that the tiles are clean, dust-free and the grout is completely dry, 24 hours should suffice, apply a second coat over the whole area. All sealers are best applied with a sponge, sparingly and making sure any excess is removed within ten minutes.

10. Sit back, relax and be proud. Tiling is not the easiest of tasks to undertake at home but with planning, a little patience and the correct tools and materials, a satisfying and rewarding result can be achieved.

Be sure to use the correct safety equipment and read all the manufacturers instructions before use. Cut outside if at all possible, wear goggles and gloves when cutting and remove tiles from their boxes carefully as broken tiles are extremely sharp. Always ask for advice, if your are ever unsure.

Good luck with, and enjoy, the challenge of tiling.   

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Designed, written and updated by Paul M Pinel. Last Updated: 09/11/07 13:55:31. Copyright © 2005-2007. All rights reserved.

The advice, views and opinions expressed on this site are purely that of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Paul M Pinel Limited. Colour reproduction is as accurate as the process allows and should be used as a guide only.